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Mountaineering in Kazakhstan
9 February 2008
Mountaineering in Kazakhstan
Location: The Republic of Kazakhstan is located in Central Asia.
Area: 2,717,300 sq km
Population: 16,900,000 (1993 estimate)
Population Density: 6.2 per sq km
Capital: Astana
It is accepted to consider the 17 of July 1930 as a date of Kazakhstan’s mountaineering birth. On that day G. Beloglazov and V. Gorbunov from Almaty and A. Misovskiy from Moscow made an ascent on Maloalmatinskiy Peak (4376 m). Later this Peak had been renamed and became The Komsomol Peak.
In 1982 the first Soviet Himalaya expedition was held. Five mountaineers from Kazakhstan: K. Valiyev, V. Hrischatiy, Y. Golodov, E. Ilyinskiy and S. Chepchev participated there. In a difficult meteorological conditions the first pair – K. Valiyev and V. Hrischatiy achieved the highest height of the Earth. Y. Golodov rose on the top on May 9. E. Ilyinskiy and S. Chepchev rose till 8550 m. It was the triumph of the Kazakhstan mountaineering. All participants were marked by the governmental awards.
The Second Soviet Himalaya Expedition on Kanchenjanga (8586) peak was held in 1989. Nine Kazakhstan’s sportsmen: V. Hrischatiy, K. Valiyev, A. Bukreev, Z. Halitov, G. Lunyakov, R Haybullin, V. Dediy, V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev took part in it.
In the spring 1991 it was the new Himalaya expedition consisted only of Kazakhstan sportsmen. It was the first ascent on Daulagiry (8167) from the West side. E. Ilyinskiy was the leader and the coach of that expedition. The expedition was consisted of 13 members: U. Moiseev, A. Tselischev, V. Suviga, A. Bukreev, R. Haibullin, V. Hrischatiy, A. Savin, A. Shigai, Z. Mizanbekov, V. Dediy and V. Makarov – the doctor.
And in October 1995 the ascent of Kazakhstan mountaineers in Manaslu Peak became the best in the world for a winter season. In was an ascent on the classic route, without oxygen. K. Valiyev was the leader of this expedition. V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev, O. Malikov, D. Sobolev was on the top and M. Mikhalkov and D. Grekov worked a lot on this route.
In 2001 the program “Kazakhstan assembly team at the highest mountains of the world” was accept. The Kazakhstan combined team have already summited ten of those peaks, namely:
1. Dhaulagiri (8167m) in1991 . (E. Ilyinskiy was the leader and the coach of that expedition. The expedition was consisted of 13 members: U. Moiseev, A. Tselischev, V. Suviga, A. Bukreev, R. Haibullin, V. Hrischatiy, A. Savin, A. Shigai, Z. Mizanbekov, V. Dediy and V. Makarov – the doctor.)
2. Manaslu (8163m) in1995 (K. Valiyev – the leader of this expedition. V. Suviga, Y. Moiseev, O. Malikov, D. Sobolev, M. Mikhalkov, D. Grekov)
3. Cho Oyu (8201m) in 1996 (A. Boukreev, K. Farafonov, S. Gataulin, O. Malikov, Y. Moiseev took part in this expedition)
4. Everest (8848m) in 1997 (P. Novikov – the leader, E. Ilyinskiy – the coach, S. Gataulin, D. Grekov, S. Lavrov, O. Malikov, M. Mikhailov, Y. Moiseev, A. Molotov, D. Murav’ev, C. Ovcharenko, L. Savina, V. Suviga, D. Sobolev, Farafonov, R. Haibullin).
5. Hidden (8068m) in 2001 (E. Ilyinskiy – the leader, Vasily Litvinov, Damir Molgachev, Vasily Pivtsov, Denis Urubko, Sergey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Maxut Zhumayev.)
6. Gasherbrum (8035m)2001 (E. Ilyinskiy – the leader, Vasily Litvinov, Damir Molgachev, Vasily Pivtsov, Denis Urubko, Sergey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Maxut Zhumayev.)
7. Kangchenjunga (8586 m) in 2002 (E. Ilyinskiy, Denis Urubko, Sergey Brodsky, Damir Molgachev, Vasily Pivtsov, Sergey Lavrov, Alexey Raspopov, Maxut Zhumayev)
8. Shisha Pangma Main (8046m) in 2002 (E. Ilyinskiy – the coach, Maxut Zhumayev, Denis Urubko, Alexey Raspopov, Vassily Pivtsov)
9. Nanga Parbat in 2003 (B. Zhunusov – the head of expedition, E. Ilyinskiy – the coach of the team, M. Zhumaev, D. Urubko, A. Raspopov, V. Pivtsov, S. Lavrov, V. Litvinov, D. Molgachev, D. Chumakov)
10. Broad Peak in 2003 (B. Zhunusov – the head of expedition, E. Ilyinskiy – the coach of the team, M. Zhumaev, D. Urubko, A. Raspopov, V. Pivtsov, S. Lavrov, V. Litvinov, D. Molgachev, D. Chumakov)
- Editor:
- Cаидов Мухтар
