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New route from Denis Urubko

29 September 2008

28 August, 2008 Tien Shan.

Denis Urubko, Boris Dedeshko and Gennady Urubko’s new route on 8womenclimbers peakDurov had climbed the new route on Eight women-climbers Peak (6110 m) in alpine style, 6A Russian Grade, 33 pitches. This peak was topped only once in 1974 via South ridge. Nobody tryed it during 34 years. Before this climb the team “trained” on two other new routes – Bayankol (5A Russian Grade) and Peak Kazakhstan (4B Russian Gradt).

It was the real exploration in wild Central Tien Shan. Mountaineers usually arrive there for Khan-Tengry normal route only, and nobody try to broad opinions for the different routes or mountains.

Meanwhile, Central Tien Shan is a great mountain country with very bad climate conditions – a bad weather and strong high-altitude difficulties. Bottoms of mountains are lokated at 4000 m, tops – at 6000-7000 m.