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Another 9th grade by Toni Lamprecht

25 May 2009

“Pe’ahi” is the name given to a big wave surfing reef break in Maui, called “Jaws” due to the size and ferocity of the waves.

The new Kochel route, in the South of Germany, is called “Jaws 11” due to the wave-like feature of the rock, the height of the route and the ferocity of the moves. It is the home of some new-school-climbing including jump moves and frequent compression bouldering sections where many specific body and weather conditions must concurrently occur.

Although the project is not exactly new (I placed the bolts already 15 years ago and played around on the moves once in a while) I started to attempt it more seriously in autumn 2008. After a successful boulder-winter I was able to link all the sections in the beginning of May after working the route for a couple of weeks.

After starting in 15m height with a boulder jump and a hard section following the lip of a fish mouth-looking rock formation you reach a decent rest. The second part of the route is a hard boulder-sequence that involves a lot of body and slopper power.

“Jaws 11” is a strong contender for the hardest route I have climbed in the area of Kochel, with a grading potential up in the French 9th grade. Future will show what other climbers will think about the exact grade.

I also managed to do “Katze auf dem heißen Blechdach”, 8c which is a tricky route with a double-dyno finish.

Margit Memminger
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